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How a Long-Line Can Transform LLW – Member ideas and Video
We’ve talked about the benefits of long line walking, allowing a dog to sniff on walks previously during our motivation topic month. In our survey following that great exploration, many Digging Dogs members shared the following great reasons to incorporate long-line walks and allowing sniffing:
- Let them feel more control, trust you, observe reactions/interactions
- Opportunity to observe behavior while reducing pressure
- Great tool for potty breaks in a yard and great way to practice recall with puppies
- The dog is confined yet has the ability to distance himself from his handler enough to work on recall training.
safety, ability to move around freely to explore, make their own choice - Space, the ability to watch the dog interact
- Teaches space, boundaries, exploring, he can take his time to come closer to know you
- Gives dog the choice to come to you
- Can let the dog explore without letting him off the lead, the dog comes to you on his terms when on long leash reduces anxiety
- More freedom of movement, enhanced ability to explore her environment, opportunities for trainer to shape recall behavior
- Make sure dog does not wander off, let the dog decide when they are comfortable approaching you (consent test)
- Let the dog explore and feel comfortable
- Space for pup to separate and sniff, return to handler when they are comfortable
- Handler can be assured pup will not be able to bolt after a distraction
- Builds trust and confidence while allowing the pup some freedom to explore and have a larger radius to explore
Would you like to know how to get started using a long line? Here’s a clip from a recent conversation I had with Kelsey Weber, CPDT-KA an expert dog trainer in Sherwood Oregon, who uses long-line walking as a regular part of her day training and walking program.
Check out what she has to say, then jump in with your thoughts. Have you tried working with a Long Line as a way to get started with loose-leash walking and relationship building?
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26 Replies
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I have worked a little with a Long Line with my own dogs. Our backyard is not fenced in, so I use the long line as a safety tool. I take the dogs on the long line into the backyard and work on different cues with them. I reward them for staying close to me while we walk around the yard with the long line, at this point, there is no pulling on the leash which could help build the loose-leash walking skills.
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@Melissa Yours are good ideas, too. From the dog’s perspective, how do you think what Kelsey is teaching is different from the way you are using the long-line?
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I think Kelsey is using the long-line to give the dog more choice, I am using it to be sure the choice is not able to run off while working with them, and so they don’t feel the tension on the leash. I was looking at it like a control tool for me, and Kelsey is looking at it like a boundary tool for her. She said in her post, that control is a motivator. She is using the motivator of control for the dog, so that she is able to give the space the dog needs, to work on the behavior modification.
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@Melissa Yep – you got it! I’m glad you can see the differences in the goals of the line. One clarification – control is a motivator – and we are going to talk more about this soon, with the concept of “agency” when we dig into the topic of enrichment starting next week! – but I think she was talking here about the human end of the leash. People are VERY motivated by control. And they can be very, very nervous when they perceive they have less control, such as the case when their dog is on a long line.
Any ideas how we can help clients feel more “in control” or find another motivation for allowing their dogs freedom on a long line?
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I have not used the long line yet in LLW, but I really want to try. I use it usually for dogs who live in apartment/townhome settings to “get the zippies” out before we knuckle down a bit, or use it to give the dog some freedom when training outside on stays, recalls, etc…
Can anyone point out some good resource videos in getting used to handling a long line on a walk? I would love to pass those along to some of the clients, as well.
This is COOL!!! Thank you for this topic!
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I’m finding that long-lines can be real game-changers for dogs of different temperaments: reactive dogs seem to be able to choose calmer behaviors when they are not trapped by the small radius of a short leash, cautious dogs are often more willing to explore when they have the variety of options that freer range offers, and the semi-freedom granted by this tool allows energetic dogs to romp and return for reinforcement that would not be possible on a six-foot leash – all of this with the safety of the long-line to fall back on if needed!
I’ll echo @bernerlabreclectus earlier request and see if folks might have suggestions on how to teach handlers the skills and how to feel more comfortable with using long-lines.
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Bringing this topic up again, as I’ve been playing with the long-line concept a bit more with my younger dog. ????
I’m learning that the ????key in all this is how the line is handled – giving the dog just enough slack so that there’s a “smile” but not so much tension that they feel the drag. Dropping it makes so much drag that a less confident dog may stop, altogether. But, with keeping up with the back and forth of the line, I’m having to be really quick with both my hands ???? and my feet ????to keep us from getting tangled up.
I’m wondering if any of you have been experimenting with long line work and have some tips to add?
????Tagging a few folks who may have some ideas to add here…
@virginiad @bmacwatt @jenz @walkswithalex @zaneb
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Huge fan of using a longer leash for walks, @programdev . My dogs are on 10′ biothane lines — weatherproof, available in various widths, easy to handle and to clean.
When I work with clients and we introduce long lines, especially when it’s 15′ or longer, it’s really important to teach them how to handle it safely. (Also, in almost all cases, I think a long line should be attached to the back clip of a body harness.) If too much slack is available and the dog is large/strong, that’s a safety risk at both ends of the leash if he suddenly dashes away from you. BAM! when he hits the end of the line. I have the person practice gathering loops of slack, and then feeding out one loop of slack at a time, until they’re proficient, and BEFORE ever attaching to the dog. 🙂When using a long line in open field work, say meandering around and letting the dog sniff and explore, there’s another neat way to handle the long line that I love. I hope it’s okay to share this video link by the Collared Scholar – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNbGCIXdNhg&t=34s
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Fantastic – this video is really helpful, @virginiad – thanks for posting! This is exactly what I’ve been working on, and boy, does it take some practice. I’m finding the thin biothane line I have to be easy to handle, but tough on my hands if she runs out fast – I need some gloves, methinks. I wonder if the wider lines are any easier on skin?
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Gloves are a smart bet with bigger dogs. I have teenies, so it’s not an issue.
Leather might be easier on your hands, but that’s cost-y.
Have you ever used the rolled rope-climbing style lines, like Mendota makes?-
Sure; I love the biothane for how quickly it dries, too; and it doesn’t stretch like leather.
I’ve not tried the rope lines – my hands burn, just thinking about it! lol ????
Gloves it is, then. hm… I’ll have to ask what brand Kelsey uses – I know she has a few types. I’ll report back!
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@andibaby we were just taking about leash walking… check this out for a pro’s explanation. Mine wasn’t that good! ????
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Really helpful and interesting! Thx @laurentraci
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At the risk of overloading you with great information, @andibaby – we have a whole channel dedicated to loose leash walking. At least you can see that the opposite (pulling) is a common problem – we have dozens of discussions on it, and we’re just getting started! ????
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I love using long lines. Shout out to White Pine Outfitters https://www.whitepineoutfitters.com/
for making the best 3/8 inch wide long lines! This is a flat, very soft leash. I find the way to give clients some sense of control is using both hands with the leash and practicing first without the dog. So most of leash goes in one hand with figure 8 loops (they don’t get tangled like regular loops) to take up the slack, then the other braking hand (next to the dog) runs the leash threaded through the index finger and then palm towards the dog’s harrness. When you grab the leash through the braking hand threaded through the index finger you have excellent stopping power when you need it. I’ll try to put a photo up soon. I also like the Mendota lines for long leash walking.
Grisha Stewart just came out with this leash belay method for large dogs which is really helpful as well. Shifting the center of gravity to your waist and using a carabiner for letting the long line out and braking gives you stopping power without needing to use aversive equipment. https://youtu.be/I8SQexReTGs
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@abbie , thanks for posting this. I actually watched a webinar Grisha did on this technique, bought the equipment, and then have yet to have a big, hefty puller to try it with! Have you utilized this technique yourself? If so, how did you find it?
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@abbie – this is a fantastic share – love the work Grisha does. Using climbing gear is genius, to protect your hands.
My only concern for safety would be how to get out of it quickly in an emergency. Do you have any insight on that?
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@programdev , great point to bring up.
Some equipment provides a quick release, in case of an emergency.
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Wow!
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Hi @catherine , the way you protect your hands is two fold. First because you use climbing rope the end of the rope does not have a handle and can just pass through the caribiner clean. That leaves you with having to get your dog as they trail the long line…but at least it provides safety for the human in extrodinary cases. The plan is to slowly stop the dog way before you got to a point where you run out of rope. The caribiner provides the stopping power the leash will not slide through your hands at all. If you have ever used a belay system for climbing you know that even a very small person can support the weight of a large person just hanging off a rock by using the physics and equipment.
Also as someone mentioned if you really want to be safe you can purchase a quick release belt for the belay system. I have one of these for skijoring. There is a clip on the belt which allows you to detach the lines from the belt with a quick movement with one hand. Since we are just walking the dog I don’t think this level of equipment is needed but it can come in handy for canicross and skijoring when you can get some speed going. The only time I have had to use the release is when I fall in the snow and don’t want my dog getting tangled in my skis.
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This is a fantastic description of how these tools work. Thank you for teaching me, @abbie . I am impressed with your understanding of the belay system. I have rock-climbing on my bucket-list, but haven’t done it yet. And cani-cross/skijoring is so exciting. We would love to see video with you and your dogs. – you could start a whole ‘nuther topic in our Sports channel and teach us all the things!
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I don’t have any video of ski jouring because I’m smart enough not to try to video while skiing… I’m not that great at skiing. Unfortunately Eli is retired from pulling sports due to a hiking injury several years ago but I think it might have some old bike jouring footage I could post.
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???? Of course! That makes sense; same reason I don’t have any footage of teaching Bliss to swim…
Anything you have is really interesting as we learn together about various options with our dogs. Thanks, @abbie
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Giving this a bump. Kelsey always has great tips for us. She uses long lines in her training walks, and has practical advice for pet owners and pros.
@Keala_Wai I also thought you might find some nuggets here for your work with Wai.
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Thanks! ????
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